Across the Mountains
Another early one. From Kurashiki, the Yakumo limited express goes north across the Chugoku mountains to the Sea of Japan side, about two and a half hours of valleys, rivers and tiny towns. Breakfast on board.




Walking to the Castle
Matsue is a city of water, between Lake Shinji and the sea, with rivers and canals everywhere. We walked from the station along the Ohashi River, with a stop for coffee.







The castle still has its moat all the way around, with little sightseeing boats going round it.



The Black Castle
Matsue Castle was finished in 1611. It’s one of the 12 castles with an original keep, and a National Treasure since 2015. It’s black, wooden and big, six floors inside including the basement, sitting on a stone base above the trees.



And for the castle quest: the coin machine. Another coin for the collection.


Inside
Inside, there’s a well in the basement, so the castle could hold out in a siege, and thick wooden pillars all the way up. On display: armour, a horse statue, old photos of the castle and a list of the lords who lived here.






The top floor is open on all sides, with a view over Matsue, Lake Shinji and the mountains. And a breeze, finally.







Then lunch, a quick Starbucks, and the train to Yasugi for what turned out to be the highlight of the day: the Adachi Museum of Art.
Information About Matsue Castle
One of Japan's 12 original castle keeps, finished in 1611 and a National Treasure since 2015. About 25 minutes' walk from Matsue Station, or a short bus ride.