Fukuoka has more yatai than anywhere else in Japan: open-air food stalls on wheels, set up every evening on the pavement and packed away again before morning. Each is a tiny kitchen with a counter, a few stools and a plastic curtain. Back from Yufuin, we went to find one.
Picking a Stall
The yatai along the river in Nakasu all have their own speciality: ramen, oden, grilled skewers, gyoza. There was an event going on too, with a stage and lights. We walked the row a couple of times before squeezing into one with two free stools.
At the Counter
Inside, it’s one red counter around a kitchen the size of a cupboard, with a cook doing everything at once. We ordered an omelette, grilled chicken and grilled beef, and a drink each.
Cramped, loud, hot, and great fun.
Tomorrow, our last full day: Hakata’s old temples, then one more special train.
Information About the Yatai
Fukuoka has more yatai, open-air food stalls, than anywhere else in Japan. The Nakasu ones line the river from about 6pm. Each seats eight or so, and you squeeze in where there's space.
PS: Most yatai are cash only, and it's polite to order a drink and a few dishes rather than sit on one plate. Don't stay too long when people are waiting.