Checking In
For our Matsushima night, we stayed at a proper ryokan: Hanagokoro no Yu Shintomitei, on the hill above the bay, a few minutes’ walk from JR Matsushima Station. We’d dropped our bags here in the morning before the bay cruise, and after the Fukuura Bridge we walked back up to check in.
It’s not the newest ryokan around. The carpets and the lounge are very much from a few decades ago. But we love traditional inns, and that’s half the charm.
Yukata and Onsen
First thing after check-in: change into yukata and go soak. The ryokan has two big baths, one on each floor, and they swap between men and women overnight, so you get to try both.
The Dinner
Dinner was in the dining hall, with our room number and name on the table. And it was quite delicious. It’s a seafood kaiseki, so lots of little dishes all at once, plus a few more that keep coming.
There was sashimi with a big sweet prawn, crab legs, and a seafood hotpot with prawn, scallop and a crouton-like thing floating on top, cooking away over its own little burner.
And dessert, a little pudding to close it off.
After dinner we hung out in the lounge for a bit, with a can of Fire coffee from the vending machine, because why not.
By the time we got back to the room, the staff had laid out our futons. Best part of any ryokan stay.
Breakfast
Breakfast the next morning was a pick-your-own spread, with little dishes in a big tray, plus miso soup, salad and juice. One last soak, and then we were off.
Next up: the train back to Tokyo for the last three days of the trip!
Information About Shintomitei
A bit dated, and we didn't care one bit: tatami, yukata, onsen, and a dinner we still talk about.
PS: Free pick-up from JR Matsushima or Matsushima-Kaigan Station: call them on the day to book it.