Kazuemachi
After the samurai district, across town to the geisha side. Kazuemachi is the smaller of the two, with alleys so narrow you can touch both sides.
It runs along the Asano River, and Higashi Chaya is just over the bridge.
Higashi Chaya
Then Higashi Chaya, the big one. Two-storey wooden teahouses with fine lattice fronts, where geisha have entertained since 1820.
One of the old teahouses is open inside, so in we went.
Further in: the tatami rooms, the stage and the drums where the geisha performed for their guests.
By the time we came out it was dusk, and the street was emptying out. The best time to be there.
Yakiniku at NOBU
Dinner was yakiniku at NOBU, a small place where they grill in front of you.
Thick, marbled slices of wagyu, seared for a few seconds.
Then a second round, because of course.
The best meal of the trip so far, easily. Tomorrow morning: breakfast at Omicho Market, then a castle.
Postcard from Higashiyama, Kanazawa
Kanazawa's biggest geisha district: two-storey wooden teahouses with fine lattice fronts, some open inside. Kazuemachi, a smaller one, is just across the Asano River. Go late afternoon and stay for dusk, when the crowds thin out.