Lunch first, a quick rice bowl near the castle, then check-in. Our Airbnb was in an old townhouse style, with a wooden bed frame and a coffee roaster in the lobby.
Oyama Shrine
Oyama Shrine is dedicated to Maeda Toshiie, the first lord of Kanazawa. Its gate is a strange one: a three-storey tower from 1875 with a stained-glass window at the top, designed partly by a Dutch architect. A mix of Japanese, Chinese and European styles, and it somehow works.
Nagamachi, the Samurai District
A short walk west is Nagamachi, where the Maeda clan’s samurai lived. Narrow lanes, tall earthen walls with straw covers on top to protect them from the snow, and a little canal running alongside.
The Nomura family house is open to visitors. Inside: samurai armour, painted sliding doors, and a small garden squeezed in between the rooms that’s considered one of the best in Japan. Koi, a waterfall, stone lanterns, all in a space the size of a living room.
Kazuemachi and the Asano River
Across town, Kazuemachi is a smaller geisha district with alleys so narrow you can touch both sides. It runs along the Asano River.
Higashi Chaya
Then Higashi Chaya, the big one. Two-storey wooden teahouses with fine lattice fronts, where geisha have entertained since 1820. One of the old teahouses is open inside, with the tatami rooms, the stage and the drums where the geisha performed.
Yakiniku at NOBU
Dinner was yakiniku at NOBU, a small place where they grill the wagyu in front of you. Thick, marbled slices, seared for a few seconds. The best meal of the trip so far, easily.
Tomorrow morning: breakfast at Omicho Market, then a castle.
Information About Kanazawa's Old Districts
Nagamachi (samurai), Kazuemachi and Higashi Chaya (geisha) are all walkable from Oyama Shrine in an afternoon, with the Asano River in between.