The Ninja Temple
A few minutes’ walk from Nishi Chaya is Myoryuji, better known as the Ninja Temple.
No actual ninjas. It was built in 1643 by the Maeda lords, who weren’t allowed to build more defences by the shogun, so they disguised one as a temple. Inside, there are trapdoors, hidden staircases, secret rooms, a well that’s supposedly a tunnel to the castle, and lookout windows. You can only go in on a guided tour, and photos are allowed in just a few places.
So most of the trapdoors live only in our heads now. Outside, there’s a small shrine in the grounds and a stone pillar at the gate.
Kanazawa Curry
Dinner was Kanazawa curry: thick, dark curry sauce on rice, a breaded cutlet on top, shredded cabbage on the side, all on a steel plate, eaten with a fork. It’s like the Japanese version of a hawker classic, cheap and filling.
Early night. Tomorrow, the alarm was set for 4:30am: the train down to Kurashiki.
Postcard from Teramachi, Kanazawa
A temple from 1643 built like a fortress, with trapdoors, hidden rooms and stairways. Guided tours only, about 40 minutes, five minutes' walk from Nishi Chaya.
PS: Book the tour ahead by phone. Walk-ins often find the day full.