Gold Leaf Ice Cream
Back from Maruoka, the first thing was the famous gold leaf soft serve. Kanazawa makes almost all of Japan’s gold leaf, so it’s on everything here. Honestly? It’s a scam. Regular vanilla soft serve with a thin slice of gold on top, and ¥500 more for it. Duh. But you buy it anyway, for the “I’ve been to Kanazawa” photo.
Nishi Chaya
Nishi Chaya is the smallest of Kanazawa’s three geisha districts, a single short street of wooden teahouses. Compared to Higashi Chaya, it was almost empty.
There’s a small free museum in an old teahouse, with a bright red room upstairs, where the guests were entertained.
The Ninja Temple
A few minutes away is Myoryuji, better known as the Ninja Temple. No actual ninjas. It was built in 1643 by the Maeda lords, who weren’t allowed to build more defences by the shogun, so they disguised one as a temple. Inside, there are trapdoors, hidden staircases, secret rooms, a well that’s supposedly a tunnel to the castle, and lookout windows. You can only go in on a guided tour, and photos are allowed in just a few places.
Kanazawa Curry
Dinner was Kanazawa curry: thick, dark curry sauce on rice, a breaded cutlet on top, shredded cabbage on the side, all on a steel plate, eaten with a fork. It’s like the Japanese version of a hawker classic, cheap and filling.
Early night. Tomorrow, the alarm was set for 4:30am: the train down to Kurashiki.
Information About Myoryuji
A temple from 1643 built like a fortress, with trapdoors, hidden rooms and stairways. Guided tours only, about 40 minutes, five minutes' walk from Nishi Chaya.
PS: Book the tour ahead by phone or online. Walk-ins often find the day full.