The Sapporo Central Wholesale Seafood Market
Hokkaido is well known for its fresh seafood. In Sapporo, the largest and best-known market is the Sapporo Jyogai Ichiba (also known as Sapporo Central Wholesale Seafood Market, or Curb Market). For those who are interested, there is a tour of the auctions at the wholesale market, which is pretty much similar to the Tsukiji Fish Market. We were just going there for the seafood, pretty obviously.
Seafood Galore at Sapporo Jyogai Ichiba
We were deciding between the Sapporo Jyogai Ichiba or the Nijo Market. Because Nijo Market was walkable from our hotel at The B Sapporo, we headed there first. Good thing we set aside time for both because Nijo Market was really just a couple of stalls selling stuff. So we headed for Sapporo Jyogai Ichiba right after. The vibes at Jyogai Ichiba were totally different: much livelier, and larger of course.
This place is not just a tourist attraction, even the locals love this place. It is about as huge as it can get, with more than 80 stores and restaurants lined along the streets. There were literally tons of crab: snow crab, king crab, hairy crab, whatever you can think of. The usual suspects like sea urchin, fresh salmon, scallops and oysters were all over the place.
The entire market is bustling with activity. And it was only 9 a.m. Hordes of tourists crowded in front of different stalls eating fresh crabs. You’d basically take your pick, eat it fresh or grilled, any way you like. It looks tempting but pricey. We decided to resist the temptation as we were having our crab dinner tonight at Ebi Kani Gassen.
The most amazing sight was the live king crabs. Indeed, this place was similar to Addiction Aquatic Development in Taipei, except a lot better. The crabs were insanely huge, and expensive. I cannot bear to spend ¥38,000 on a meal, no doubt it was 3 kg worth of cholesterol.
We also saw a storekeeper demonstrating his tuna slicing abilities. And the tuna head weighs a whopping 103 kg! We never knew a tuna was this large.
Sushi Breakfast at Sapporo Jyogai Ichiba
We decided that it’s time to settle our breakfast. Everyone was eating crab outside, nobody was at the sushi shops, so we gonna try that. We ordered a few pieces of random sushi, and the sashimi was unbelievably fresh! Oishii!
We also ordered a side dish of baked potato. But instead of the usual butter flavor, we tried the one that is topped with Shiokara. We are not sure what this is, but it seems interesting. Unfortunately I came to realize that shiokara is a dish made from salted, fermented squid viscera. It was slimy, very salty and tasted like rotten seafood. It’s one of those things you’d regret putting in your mouth, like smelly tofu. Somehow apparently Minmin loves it. As much as I wanted to, I couldn’t, so basically I ate the potato and she finished up the Shiokara.
After eating we continued exploring the place. There are also stalls selling fruits and vegetables. They say the fruits in Japan are sweet and juicy, but we couldn’t bear to pay that much for 4 strawberries. And next, we are going to Hokkaido Shrine!
Jyogai Ichiba or Nijo Market?
Jyogai. Nijo is closer to Susukino, but it’s only a couple of streets of stalls. Jyogai has 80-plus shops, live king crab, a tuna-slicing show, and locals doing their shopping. If you have one morning, spend it here. Our sushi breakfast was ¥2,400 for two.
Postcard from Kita 11 Jo, Sapporo
Over 80 shops of crab, tuna and sea urchin, and locals shopping alongside the tourists. Breakfast was sushi so fresh it barely needed soy sauce. The shiokara potato, less so.
PS: 7 minutes on foot from Nijuyonken subway station. Get there by 9am, before the tour crowds.