Lunch in Shiroishi Town
After the foxes at Zao Fox Village, we took a taxi back down into Shiroishi town. It was 3 January, and the streets were super quiet. We were also super hungry.
If you eat one thing in Shiroishi, it should be umen, the town’s own noodle. So we went looking for an umen shop and found Tsurigane-an, in an old wooden house a short walk below the castle.
What Is Shiroishi Umen?
Umen (温麺) are thin, short wheat noodles made with just flour, water and salt. Most hand-pulled noodles use oil to keep the dough from drying out. Umen doesn’t.
There’s a story behind that. Around 400 years ago, a man in Shiroishi called Suzuki Ajiemon had a father with a weak stomach who couldn’t eat much. A travelling monk taught him how to make noodles without oil, his father ate them and got better, and the story went around town. The lord of Shiroishi, Katakura (the same Katakura family as Shiroishi Castle), was so touched by the son’s warm heart that he named the noodles “warm noodles”: umen.
Our Umen Sets
Inside, it’s all dark wood and paper screens, with red noren at the windows.
We each got a set on these red lacquer trays: one hot umen in soup, and one cold umen with three dipping sauces. Both came with little side dishes and pickles.
The Little Courtyard
Out back, there’s a small courtyard garden with a stone path running along the house, and a little red torii in the corner. Minmin, of course, wanted photos.
The torii looks extra red against the green garden and the blue sky.
Full and warm again, we walked up the hill. Onward to Shiroishi Castle!
Information About Tsurigane-an
Shiroishi's own noodle, umen, in an old wooden house: hot or cold sets on red lacquer trays, about ¥1,000 to ¥2,000 each.
PS: It's a short walk from here up to Shiroishi Castle, so lunch here, then the castle.