Yamatoya Honten
After Matsuyama Castle, we checked in at our ryokan for the next two nights: Yamatoya Honten in Dogo Onsen, an old ryokan with its own noh stage, a couple of minutes’ walk from the famous bathhouse. The room was a classic tatami room, with a little sitting area by the window that we basically lived in.
There’s a dagashi bar in the lobby: old-school Japanese sweets, free for guests. And this being Ehime, a tap that pours mikan juice. Minmin went down in her hanten for a cup.
Dogo at night
After dark we walked to Dogo Onsen Honkan, the old public bathhouse that inspired the bathhouse in Spirited Away. At night, all lit up, it really does look like it came out of the film. It was also decorated for a Rilakkuma collaboration, which is not very Studio Ghibli, but Minmin wasn’t complaining. Around it, the Dogo shopping arcade was still busy with people in yukata, snacks and souvenir shops.
Tsuru-chan
Dinner was udon at Tsuru-chan in the Dogo arcade: a nabeyaki udon, bubbling in its own little pot, and udon with tempura on the side. Simple, hot, and exactly right after a day of bridges, castles and chairlifts.
Onward to the bathhouse, inside!
Postcard from Dogo Onsen, Matsuyama, Ehime
An old ryokan in Dogo Onsen with its own noh stage, a few minutes' walk from Dogo Onsen Honkan. Free dagashi sweets and a mikan juice tap in the lobby for guests.